I’ve combined the diary for these two days partly for dramatic effect, and partly because the setup of the night before is directly connected to what happens “tomorrow.” Up until now, this journey has been a lot of “feet and food,” a lot of pain and suffering. Losing 15 pounds off my feet overnight helped my body immensely. It also helped me start to surrender my attachment to how I got to Santiago. The other half of the surrender happened on April 1.
About halfway through my journey, a pilgrim shared a Camino adage that helped me make sense of the struggle inherent to the experience. The first part of the Camino is physical – walking 15 miles a day puts an excruciating amount of strain on the body – and enduring that physical pain helps open the mind and heart. The second part of the Camino is psychological – the endless miles of flat, straight track across the Spanish Meseta give the mind ample time to warp and wander, bringing the soul’s wounds and worries into focus. The last part begins at the Cruz de Ferro and is spiritual. The constraints of the body and the mind’s worries fall away, leaving only the pulsing heart and soul of the pilgrim to find their way closer to God.
Soon after my April Fools dilemma (recounted below), the long flat miles of the Meseta will begin. This is where the journey gets emotional and intense. From now through April 17 (Easter 2022) I’ll be writing only for paid subscribers. If you’re a free subscriber and you’ve enjoyed this journey so far, I hope you’ll go paid for the month so you can join us. If not, no worries! See you on the other side.
April’s Fool
Starting Point: Logroño, España
In comparison to many other days of my Camino, March 31 was a great day. I walked out of Logroño feeling light and spry and easily completed my planned walk to a village some ten miles beyond the city by mid-afternoon. Without the extra 15 pounds I’d been carrying on my back, and the midwife’s foot cream well applied, my feet almost didn’t hurt. Almost.
A lovely young hostelera greeted me when I arrived and showed me around the albergue. All the restaurants in the village were closed for the day, but she offered me the chance to buy some provisions from her store so I could make myself a light supper.
Just before she left, she suddenly remembered something important.
“Oh!” she exclaimed. “Are you ready for the snowstorm tomorrow?”
I blinked and looked at her blankly. Perhaps I had misunderstood?
“Nieve?” I said incredulously. Snow?
Yes, indeed.